Sunday, 24 November 2024

Dead Bodies



Sometimes I wake in the wee small hours and fret.  It is as if I have woken up completely, except for my sense of proportion which is still firmly dormant.  It was a relief to find there was an old English word for these ‘worries before dawn’ – uhtceare.  I am not alone – the existence of an Anglo Saxon term shows others have shared this experience for at least a millennium, and probably much longer.

When the worry is something simple, like something I must remember to do, I have an effective remedy – I jot it down on a pad on my bedside table and return to sleep. 

On Tuesday morning I woke to my alarm, and although I couldn’t remember writing anything in the night, out of habit I glanced at the pad.  What I saw there shocked me.

‘Tell parents about dead bodies.’

This shocking memo meant nothing to me.  I checked the handwriting.  It was unmistakably mine. Had I been sleep-writing in a nightmare?  Was I going crazy?  I was so disturbed that I didn’t even mention it to Nigel.

It was only hours later, when I sat down to prepare a lesson that it finally clicked.  I was planning a museum trip for my school pupils, and there were human skeletons in one of the galleries.  Nowadays, one flags this up in case it might upset somebody.  With a grunt of relief, I added a sentence about human remains to the letter due to be sent out to parents.

At least now I could cross out ‘dead bodies’ from my list of uhtceare.

 


 

Friday, 15 November 2024

Adding a little time travel to our trip

If I can get my act together, I accompany a trip abroad with a novel that's set in the place. Often it doesn't work out, but this time, on our trip to Paris, it did.
I read Edmund de Waal's 'The hare with amber eyes', the story of the rise and fall of the author's wealthy Jewish forbears, told via the vehicle of their collection of netsuke (tiny Japanese carvings). Charles Ephrussi was a connoisseur and art collector in the second half of the nineteenth century. The book includes a painting by Caillebotte which captured the atmosphere of the place where Charles lived, so when I spotted a Caillebotte exhibition at the Musee D'Orsay I was eager to go.
The lifestyle it portrayed was of wealthy men who had taken the decision to remain bachelors, not because they were gay (although some may have been), but out of a wish to remain unencumbered by domestic concerns and to pursue love affairs while avoiding responsibilities. The time allowed by such a lifestyle was spent by Caillebotte in painting and by Ephrussi in studying art.
They lived in the same neighbourhood - De Waal wrote about it and Caillebotte painted it.
The result was that for one glorious morning in the Musee d'Orsay I felt I could almost reach out and touch late 19th century Paris.

Tuesday, 5 November 2024

Two Europeans in Paris

When the Channel Tunnel and Eurostar first came into being, there was a certain spring in the step of people who lived in the south of England. Paris was suddenly gloriously within reach for a short break, and trouble free thanks to our European passports and health insurance cards. It was enticing to save up and grab a weekend in Paris, and we did several times, with the kids.
Last time we went, around ten years ago, the children had become adults, soon to leave for their own adventures. There was a feeling we had 'done' Paris (how dare we!), and we resorted to rarer pleasures such as visiting Pere Lachaise cemetery, eating chrysanthemums in a Chinese hotpot restaurant and walking the highly alternative the Petite Ceinture walkway.

Since then Brexit has made our relationship with Paris more troubled but for months I've had a yen to return. Finally, with autumn leaves falling, Nigel and I managed it. The sun shone for our promenade along the Rive Gauche, and made the newly restored Notre Dame gleam. 

The museums with which we had once been familiar opened up again like new treasures.
But our favourite moment occurred in the Musee d'Orsay. We were wandering amongst the Scandinavian Art Nouveau when an American couple marched past. 
'Remember,' said the man, 'We have to leave time for that other museum you wanted to visit. What was it called again?'
'The Louvre.'
Nigel nudged me. Even twenty-four hours spent in the immensity of the Louvre would merely scratch the surface. They had less than half a day before them.
'It's okay,' said the woman. 'We can spend another hour here before the Louvre.'
In finding this funny, we were maybe just being snobby - laughing at tourists less clued up than ourselves. But a more charitable interpretation would be that the Americans' ignorance gave us the welcome chance to feel like Europeans again, even after Brexit. 




Half Term Gift