A not-so-well-deserved break

Last year, when Nigel and I walked the South Downs Way, we met another couple who were undertaking the same walk. They said something which stopped us in our tracks:

'We're not walking tomorrow.  It's our rest day.'

So one could take a rest day. It simply had not occurred to us. 

'We're going to have one of those next time.' 

So this year on the Pembrokeshire coast path, the plan had been to walk for five days, then take a break when we hit St David's. But thanks to my dodgy knees, when we reached St David's we had been walking for only three of those days - did we even deserve a rest day?

However, there was no way I was going to miss out on exploring this legendary tiny city.

The cathedral turned out to be a jewel, built improbably in a hidden hollow. Inside, the splendid ancient architecture was enhanced by thought-provoking contemporary art and poetry, adding to the spirituality of the place. 

It got even better when we explored the massive ruins of the bishop's palace. There weren't too many visitors so Stephen, one of the custodians, gave us a tour. He had supplemented his historical knowledge with a detailed study of the building and showed us details we'd never have spotted, like 'the disappointing staircase' which led only to a cramped garderobe.

After that, in generous sunshine, we walked out to St Non's head and perched on the ruins of a Celtic Chapel. While Nigel read, I painted a watercolour of the sea and a linnet sang to us from a nearby fence post.

So no, maybe we didn't deserve a rest day, but we certainly enjoyed it.

South Downs Way, Day 4 Cocking to Bignor - A Roman Discovery

If there was one historical site I was looking forward to it was Bignor Roman Villa. But the website said it was shut on the day our walk was scheduled to pass it.

To a Classics teacher with a (borderline obsessive) interest in all things Roman, this was a cruel blow.

'We'll have to come back and do this properly, and visit Bignor!' 

However, the Roman gods were kind to me. 

Slowly marching across our path on the South Downs Way was the biggest snail I ever saw. 

It was an edible snail, introduced by the Romans and still to be found in the vicinity of their villas.

I don't know which Roman god was in charge of snails, but, 'Thank you!'

Even so, we'll still have to go back to visit Bignor!

South Downs Way, Day 1 - Winchester to Meonstoke - Harvey Miles

Nigel is a great optimist and a chronic underestimater of distances.

This has led, amongst our family and friends, to the concept of Harvey Miles. Harvey miles are longer than normal miles.  Our first day, Winchester to Meonstoke was to be a gentle one - 12 miles.

As we set off, Nigel added, 'Ooh. It's even better than I thought. Google says it's just 10 miles.'

As it turned out, the weather was perfect - dry, but not too hot. There were a lot of hills but mostly on a shallow gradient.  

All of which is just as well, because when we arrived, Nigel's Fitbit showed we had walked 14.6 miles.

South Downs Way - Day 0 Winchester - the rubble that made me smile

Before starting out on the South Downs Way we had an afternoon to kill in charming Winchester.

We'd visited the cathedral before and I knew if we went in again, we would be swallowed up in the interior for the rest of the day whereas I fancied a potter round the shops. 

Having 'pottered round the shops' for nearly an hour, Nigel was beginning to look desperate. Luckily for him, a sandwich board outside Tourist information proclaimed a walking tour about to start.

We joined it and admired the ancient premises of Winchester College and the stately Bishop's Palaces, both old and new.  But better than any of these was a tiny lump of collapsed wall made of flint cobbles.

This was all that remained of the Roman Walls of Winchester.

It was best was because it made me feel smug about the brilliant Roman remains we have in St Albans.

Holiday on a long distance path - The South Downs Way

In 2022, we walked Hadrian's wall and found that a long distance footpath leaves you fitter, well-slept and relaxed. 

Along the way there are encounters with both human history and natural history - two of my passions.

In the evenings, one is often at a hamlet in the middle of nowhere so there are few distractions from reading, writing and painting.  There is time to reflect on the day's discoveries.

It's not entirely stress free. A little thing like sunburn, blisters or a stomach upset could threaten the whole trip.  One is obliged to take good care of one's body - a good thing in itself. 

When looking for our next footpath, the choice seemed obvious. I'd walked sections of the South Downs Way before and I liked the simplicity of it - high ridges with views,  larks climbing into the blue, and the footpath, a white line scored into the chalk soil. It promised freedom.

The South Downs Way is a recent construct rather than an ancient Way, but still, it is composed out of many old paths and drovers ways, and it would allow us a transect through the fascinating villages of southern England.

And all that sky!

Ready to come home

As we get older time passes so quickly.  As we get ready to leave on our walk of the South Downs Way I can already imagine us returning, tired and with the usual deflated post-holiday feeling.  

So we prepare a lovely homecoming for ourselves. 
We tidy up, change the beds, scrub the bathrooms, hoover the carpets and book a supermarket delivery.
When we get back to our cosy home it'll be easier to leave the post-holiday blues on the doorstep.