St Cuthbert's Way – The Pilgrims'Way

It was our last day of walking. Our final destination was Holy Island and it was now within sight. All we had to do was sprint across the A1, dash over the main Edinburgh-London rail line at an unmanned level crossing, then walk three or so miles along a causeway to Holy Island before the tide came in. 

Simples.

Opportunely, low tide was to occur in the morning, giving us plenty of time to get across. 

Nigel and I had both assumed there was only one causeway and that it was the one the cars used. 

But the guidebook indicated an alternative route. We could walk the three miles from shore to Island across a wilderness of sand and mud along a route marked out by poles, with the occasional refuge tower on stilts for those who get caught out by a rising tide. Enough water would remain that we would need to take our shoes and socks off. 

This was called the Pilgrims' Way.

I announced that I would like to go this way.

Nigel however spotted that the car causeway cleared sooner so we could set off half an hour earlier. The footing was firmer and we could stride on with no need to unboot.

We discussed it, and by the end of breakfast, as is not unusual with us, we had exchanged sides. For me, The Pilgrims' Way definitely looked more romantic, but I have a dodgy foot, so walking several miles barefoot was not an option. We should use the car causeway.

We set off down the road which formed the shared start to both routes and were overwhelmed by the press of nose-to-tail traffic on the narrow road. It seems the Holy Island of Lindisfarne has been featured in various TV shows and is now overly popular. It would be no pleasure to walk alongside so much traffic. We would take the Pilgrims' Way but keep our boots on as far as possible.

We followed the course set out by the poles and found ourselves walking on the bed of the sea, in a dreamy flatland of silt and sand. The grass at our feet was sea grass, and the mud was studded with cockle shells (a pilgrim emblem) and ornamented with the celtic interlace of ragworm casts. 

A woman coming in the opposite direction advised using our walking poles to test the depth of the water. In one place it had come up to her calves.

We had gone most of the way before we hit a chnnel deeper than our boots. In a way it was a relief to take them off and finish the walk like a proper pilgrim. Even more of a relief when Nigel kindly carried them for me. 

And finally, there we were on Holy Island, proud to have a little mud between our toes as we strolled on towards the priory where St Cuthbert had been Prior nearly 1,400 years ago. 

Journey's end - Lindisfarne Priory with Amanda and Mary, USA friends we made on the journey.

The end of St Cuthbert's Way was marked by a map on the wall and a set of wheelie bins, just in case we were getting above ourselves.