Growing up in Cornwall, my parents didn’t like my foraging habits.
Entranced by Richard Mabey’s ‘Food for
free’ I would gather wild hazelnuts, chestnuts and blackberries.
However, Mum and Dad drew the line at
leaves. When I plucked sorrel from the
hedgerow they would grow concerned I might make a mistake and poison myself.
This Easter Nigel and I rented a house
in Falmouth and stayed there with Pascoe, Perran and Carenza and friends Jamie
and Hannah. We visited my parents, but they
no longer have a say in what I pick and eat.
There is no more fragrant time in the
Cornish hedgerows than April, and all of it was available to us to gather. Each day, we came back with packets of
greenery in our rucksacks. Three-cornered
leeks flavoured stews, wild garlic pesto (made by my old friend Jennie) made
pasta delicious. Blossoming alexanders
provided flowers which we fried in tempura batter and leaves which I steamed
for greens. Wild sorrel and fennel added
savour to salads.
And at the end of all this foraging
and green eating, I was suffering from the runs… and completely unable to
pinpoint exactly which herbs had given me them.
So perhaps Mum and Dad were right
after all.
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