Thursday, 30 April 2026

SICILY: A Bad Atmosphere

 

In Castelbuono, we visited the eponymous castle. Belonging to the all-powerful Ventimiglia  family, the main attraction was said to be the chapel of Santa Anna, high on the top floor.

Nobody was there, but in we went – the first verdict was that it was amazingly complete, with stunning virtuoso stucco work. Lots of cherubs and swags. What a delight!

But as we looked closer, we noticed that amid the frippery a host of little goblin faces were grinning at us. Many of the cherubs were grotesquely formed. It was disturbing. Behind a grille at the altar was the mummified head of Santa Anna, mercifully hard to make out. At an upper window, something was rattling, as if trying to get in.

We looked around with increasing distaste and soon exited. While on the top floor, we used the public loos. Beneath us, at the foot of the castle, we could hear a cheery school trip entering. For me, this dispelled the tension, but Nigel seemed even more motivated to leave the castle and he set off down the stairs in quite a hurry. I had not realised he was so sensitive to atmosphere.

‘Oh dear, Nigel. Is it because that chapel creeped you out?’

He gave me a look but said nothing until we had re-emerged into the sunlight.

‘No,’ he said, ‘It’s because I used the toilet and it wouldn’t flush, and thirty school kids are now headed straight for the scene of the crime.’

Hmmm. Perhaps he’s not that sensitive after all.








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